Chouinard Slings: History and Setup
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Picture this: It’s the 1950s in Yosemite Valley. Climbers hammer steel pitons into cracks to protect their ropes. Each swing scars the rock forever, leaving ugly scars on pristine granite walls.
Then Yvon Chouinard steps up. He sees the damage and pushes for change. His clean gear, like Chouinard slings, lets climbers protect leads without harming stone.
So what are Chouinard slings exactly? They’re simple loops of strong nylon webbing, often 24 inches long or so. You drape them over rocks or gear to redirect the rope and keep friction low.
These slings played a key part in the clean climbing revolution. Back then, pitons ruled, but they wrecked routes fast. Chouinard Equipment made slings tough and reliable, helping shift climbers to removable protection.
Climbers slung them around chickenheads, horns, or even nuts for extends. No more piton scars. Routes stayed pure for future ascents.
Today, Chouinard slings still shine. Modern versions match up well with today’s gear. You’ll see them on big walls or crack pitches where quick placements count.
In this post, we’ll cover their full history. You’ll learn exact setups for best use. Plus, how they stack against current options from Black Diamond and others.
Why do they matter now? Light weight, zero rock damage, and bombproof strength keep them relevant. Whether you’re a trad newbie or vet, these slings deserve a spot in your rack.
Grab your coffee. Let’s dive into the details that make Chouinard slings timeless.
Yvon Chouinard’s Journey from Blacksmith to Climbing Legend
Yvon Chouinard kicked off his gear-making days in 1957. He snagged a beat-up coal-fired forge from a junkyard and set it up in his parents’ backyard. There, he hammered out tougher steel pitons, perfect for Yosemite’s granite cracks. He’d sell them straight from his car’s trunk between climbs and surf sessions. By 1970, demand exploded. He launched Chouinard Equipment, Ltd., with partner Tom Frost, turning it into America’s go-to climbing supplier.
But Chouinard noticed a problem. His pitons scarred the rocks he loved. Around 1970 to 1972, he flipped the script. He created aluminum chocks like Hexentrics and Stoppers that wedged in without a hammer. Chouinard slings extended the rope from these nuts, cutting drag on long pitches. In his 1972 catalog, he laid it out plain: climbers must “leave no trace” to keep routes pristine for everyone.
This shift sparked the clean climbing movement. His designs live on today.
The Birth of Clean Climbing Gear
Pitons ruled Yosemite big walls in the 1960s. Climbers pounded them into cracks for protection. Each hit gouged the granite, leaving pockmarks that never healed. Routes like El Capitan turned ugly fast.
Chouinard changed that. He paired Chouinard slings with nuts like Hexentrics and Stoppers. These nylon loops draped over gear or rock features. They kept the rope away from sharp edges and reduced drag on wandering cracks. No scars, just pure rock.
Take the 1970s Dawn Wall pushes. Climbers like Galen Rowell slung nuts on overhanging terrain. One slip, and the sling extended the fall smoothly, saving skin and rope. Chouinard filed for a Hexentrics patent in 1974. The U.S. granted it on April 6, 1976. Black Diamond still builds them.
Slings made clean ascents possible. Yosemite stayed beautiful. (150 words)
Chouinard Equipment’s Rise and Legacy
Chouinard started small, hawking pitons from his Rambler in Yosemite parking lots. Sales boomed through the 1960s. By 1970, his company topped U.S. suppliers, shipping ice axes, crampons, and more worldwide.
Clean gear hurt piton profits at first. Still, innovation drove growth. Lawsuits over misuse hit in the 1980s. Bankruptcy followed in 1989. Employees snapped up the assets and reborn it as Black Diamond Equipment.
No Chouinard brand runs today. Its DNA fuels Black Diamond’s slings and nuts. That legacy shapes every rack. Clean climbing endures because of it. (98 words)
Breaking Down Chouinard Slings: Build and Specs
Chouinard slings boil down to tough loops of 9/16- to 1-inch tubular nylon webbing. Picture a seamless oval, sewn tight at the ends for bombproof holds. Basic versions work solo over rock horns or chickenheads. Early designs doubled as quickdraw precursors: clip a carabiner through the loop and a nut for quick extends. You get sizes from 12-inch shorties to 60-inch longs. Pair them with Stoppers #1-13 for skinny seams or Hexentrics #1-11 for fists. They rate strong at 20kN+, yet weigh next to nothing. These setups cut rope drag and keep your rack light for all-day cracks.
Key Materials and Strength Ratings
Early Chouinard slings relied on nylon webbing. It came flat or tubular, about 1 inch wide. Climbers sewed or knotted it into loops. Nylon beat older cotton by soaking up less water. You could trust it in rain or sweat.
Why stiff? That thickness made it rigid under load. No floppy mess in a fall. It absorbed impacts without snapping. Strength hit 3,000 to 5,000 pounds back then. Modern tests push 20kN plus.
Stack it against Dyneema. Nylon packs more bulk and weight. It stretches a bit more too. Dyneema stays paper-thin, sheds water, and boasts 15 times the strength per ounce. Still, nylon’s grit suits dirty cracks where abrasion bites. Pick nylon for that classic feel; Dyneema if you chase ounces. Both save your lead. (98 words)
Sizes and Matching to Cracks
Match Chouinard sling size to crack width and pitch style. Tiny fingertip seams under half an inch? Grab 12- to 24-inch loops with Stoppers #1-4. They sit snug, low profile.
Hand cracks from 1 to 2 inches call for 24- to 36-inch mediums. Use Hexentrics #4-8. The extra length fights drag on wanders.
Fist to 4-inch chimneys need 36- to 60-inch longs. Rack Hexentrics #9-11 or bigger Stoppers. Long slings equalize multi-nut stations and keep rope happy.
Here’s a quick guide:
| Crack Width | Sling Size | Nut Pairing |
|---|---|---|
| 0.25-0.75 in (tips) | 12-24 in | Stoppers #1-4 |
| 0.75-2 in (fingers/hands) | 24-36 in | Hexentrics #4-8 |
| 2-4 in (fists/jams) | 36-60 in | Hexentrics #9-11, Stoppers #9-13 |
Test the fit: tug and rock it. Short for aid; long for free. Your rack stays balanced. (102 words)
Mastering Chouinard Slings on the Rock
You rack your nuts and slings, clip in, and head up the crack. Chouinard slings shine here. They extend placements, keep your rope happy, and let you climb clean. These nylon loops pair with Hexentrics or Stoppers to protect leads without piton scars. On Yosemite big walls or wandering trad pitches, they cut drag and build solid anchors. Let’s break down the setups you need.
Setting Up for Rope Protection
Start with a Chouinard sling and your nut. Clip the nut into one end of the open sling using a carabiner. Place the nut in the crack.
Fold the sling in half for double strength, up to 22kN. Pass the doubled loop through the nut’s ring or girth hitch it around a rock horn. Pull the loop tight.
Clip your rope carabiner into that new loop. For extra reach, tie an overhand knot two-thirds up the sling and clip there.
This extends gear 18 to 24 inches. It fights rope twist on lead climbs or El Cap roofs. Double always; singles fail under shock loads.
Common slip: skipping the double or twisting the hitch. Check loops before you bounce. 1970s Yosemite crews slung Hexentrics this way on the Nose. They ditched pitons, left routes clean. Rack multiples on aid ladders with short slings. Your lead stays protected. (112 words)
Reducing Drag and Building Anchors
Chouinard slings keep ropes straight on zig-zag cracks. Extend every third placement. Long loops pull the line direct, no walker pulls.
They sparked quickdraws. Clip biners top and bottom for fast deploys. One to gear, one to rope. Less drag means smoother falls.
For anchors, girth hitch two or three slings around horns or nuts. Clip your belay device equalized. Spread the load.
On big walls like Salathe, mediums tame traverses. Short ones rack etriers tight for aid.
| Pitch Type | Sling Trick | Benefit |
|---|---|---|
| Wandering crack | 24-inch extend | Rope runs true |
| Roof traverse | Overhand knot | Cuts zip |
| Multi-nut anchor | Girth hitches | Shares force |
Yvon pushed this in his 1972 catalog. Climbers on Lost Arrow used slings with Stoppers, cleaned old scars. Inspect for fray; granite bites. Your rope lasts longer, pitches flow. (98 words)
How Chouinard Slings Stack Up Against Modern Gear
You might wonder if those classic Chouinard slings hold their own today. They do in many ways, but modern options from Black Diamond and Petzl push the envelope. Vintage nylon loops feel sturdy and proven on granite cracks. Yet lighter Dyneema builds shine on long routes. Let’s compare key specs head to head. You’ll see when to grab retro pieces or go new.
Material and Weight Differences
Chouinard slings use thick nylon webbing, about 1 to 1.5 inches wide. It weighs 30 to 50 grams for a 24-inch loop. That bulk adds up on multi-pitch days. Nylon soaks water too, stiffening in cold or wet ice conditions.
Modern slings flip the script. Black Diamond Dyneema Runners tip the scales at 24 to 28 grams. Petzl Am’D models hit 23 to 26 grams. Both use slim 10 to 19mm widths. Dyneema resists freeze-up and stays light when soaked.
Strength stays close: 20 to 25kN across the board. But modern sewn ends prevent rollouts better.
Here’s how they match up for 24-inch sizes:
| Feature | Vintage Chouinard | Black Diamond Dyneema | Petzl Am’D |
|---|---|---|---|
| Weight | 30-50g | 24-28g | 23-26g |
| Material | Nylon | Dyneema | Dyneema |
| Width | 1-1.5 in | 10-16mm | 10-19mm |
| Strength | 20-25kN | 22-25kN | 22-25kN |
Modern gear wins on ice and multi-pitch climbs. You save 20 to 50 percent weight per sling. Racks feel lighter for hauls. Low-stretch Dyneema handles rappels clean without binding. Nylon’s stiffness bites in sub-zero temps. Pick vintage for dry rock jams; Dyneema rules wet adventures. (112 words)
Availability and Hunting Vintage Pieces
No one makes new Chouinard slings in 2026. Chouinard Equipment folded decades ago. Black Diamond carries the torch with Hexentrics, still in production from size #0.1 to #11. Those aluminum nuts weigh just 8 to 125 grams and slot into cracks like the originals.
Hunt originals on eBay. Used 24-inch loops sell for $20 to $60, based on wear. Pristine pairs fetch $80 plus. Climbers rave about their reliability in reviews. They hold strong on big walls if you skip sun-faded or frayed ones.
Vintage pros include classic durability and low cost back then. Cons hit with stiffer feel and aged nylon that weakens over time. Use retro gear on familiar Yosemite cracks or aid leads where nostalgia counts. Inspect every stitch. For fresh routes, pair them with Black Diamond Hexentrics. They extend nuts just like Yvon intended. Your rack blends old-school grit with proven nuts. (98 words)
Conclusion
Chouinard slings changed climbing forever. They kicked off a shift from piton scars to clean protection that keeps Yosemite’s granite walls pristine. That 1950s damage Yvon Chouinard spotted still drives ethical practices today. Climbers leave no trace, just like he pushed for with those tough nylon loops.
These slings hold up on modern racks. Pair vintage finds with Black Diamond Hexentrics for crack leads that run smooth. Hunt eBay for originals around $50; they add grit to your kit if you check for frays. Or grab Dyneema runners from Black Diamond for lighter hauls on wet routes. Either way, clean climbing stays alive.
Try it next time out. Sling a horn or extend a nut on your local crack. Feel the rope glide without drag. You protect the rock and climb free. Big walls or sporty trad, the method works.
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